Nothing Fancy: yoghurt-marinated leg of lamb with spicy fennel and sumac recipe

I love to serve sliced lamb at room temperature or even cold, but for the braise, you’ll want to gently rewarm in an oven before shredding to loosen up the fat
Alison Roman25 November 2019

SERVES 8-12

Ingredients 
*2–2.5 kg bone-in leg of lamb
*kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
*40 g fennel or cumin seeds, finely crushed, plus extra for serving
*500 g full-fat Greek-style yoghurt, plus extra for serving
*6 garlic cloves, finely grated
*3 tablespoons coarsely chopped oregano leaves, plus extra for serving
*1 tablespoon chilli flakes, plus extra for serving
*60 ml olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
*60 ml lemon juice, plus an extra 2 tablespoons
*2 large fennel bulbs, thinly sliced
*2 large handfuls parsley, coriander and/or mint, tender leaves and stems
*ground sumac (optional)
*flaky sea salt

Method

1. Using a sharp paring knife, score the lamb about 1 cm (½ inch) deep every few inches or so – this is a really large cut of meat and we aren’t trying to keep it intact or anything, but we still want to cook it on the bone. Making these incisions will help season the meat deeply and cook more evenly. It seems like a fancy technique, but I promise, you can’t mess it up.

2.Season the lamb with salt and pepper; you’ll need at least 1 teaspoon kosher salt per 450 g here. Sprinkle with the fennel seeds, making sure to get everything into those incisions.

3. Whisk the yoghurt, garlic, oregano, chilli flakes, olive oil and the 60 ml lemon juice in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. As if you were applying a mud mask, smear the yoghurt all over the lamb, making sure to get into any and all nooks and crannies. Let the meat sit, lightly covered with plastic wrap, at room temperature, for at least 1 hour or up to 2 hours, or wrap tightly in plastic and keep in the refrigerator overnight.

4. Preheat the oven to 150°C.

5. Scatter half the fennel slices around the bottom of a large roasting tin and season with salt and pepper. Without wiping off any excess marinade, place the lamb on top, fat side up. (If braising the lamb, add 500 ml cups water to the roasting tin and cover tightly with foil.)

6. Roast, without touching or moving or peeking, until the lamb registers 45°C when a thermometer is inserted about 5 cm (2 inches) deep into the thickest part of the leg (taking care not to touch the bone), 60–90 minutes. (If braising, continue cooking until the lamb is extremely tender and nearly falling apart, 3–3½ hours. Remove the foil.)

7. Increase the oven temperature to 230°C and continue to cook until the lamb has reached 50°C and is deeply golden brown all over, with little bits of charred marinade, 20–25 minutes more. (If braising, this step is just to brown and crisp up the outside of the lamb.)

8. Remove from the oven and let the lamb rest for a few minutes.

9. Once the lamb is cooked to your liking, carve the larger lobes off the bone and thinly slice. Or, for more dramatic (albeit slightly messier) presentation, thinly slice the lamb directly off the bone, in the style of a large country ham or prosciutto – this is my favourite way. (If you’ve braised the lamb, simply shred the meat into large pieces, using two forks.)

10. Combine the remaining sliced fennel and 2 tablespoons lemon juice; season with salt, pepper and extra chilli flakes. Add the herbs and toss to coat.

11. Place the lamb on a large platter and scatter with the fennel mixture. Sprinkle with extra fennel seeds, and sumac if using. Drizzle with olive oil and flaky salt and serve with extra yoghurt.

DO AHEAD Lamb can be marinated 24 hours ahead, covered loosely and refrigerated. Lamb can also be roasted or braised a few hours ahead, loosely covered with foil, and left at room temperature.

More from Nothing Fancy:

NOTHING FANCY: unfussy food for having people over by Alison Roman (Hardie Grant, £22) Photography: Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott