Ace of Face: an A-Z of the best skincare in the world right now

From stickers that zap spots to 3D-printed face masks and a new service that gives your routine an eco overhaul, Sophie Qureshi rounds up the latest and greatest in the skincare world right now

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Sophie Qureshi9 May 2019

Bespoke Future

Fed up that your sheet masks don’t fit? Neutrogena launches MaskiD in the US later this year. The revolutionary 3D printing system produces masks with targeted skincare solutions exactly where you need them.

Yaroslav Danylchenko / Stocksy United

Prime and protect

No more excuses for skimping on facial SPF because your foundation is sliding off. This featherweight, non-greasy factor 50 sits pretty under make-up.

Lancaster Sun Perfect Infinite Glow Illuminating Cream, £80, at selfridges.com

Anyone for a skincare sarnie?

If you’ve never heard of retinol, it’s the superstar anti-ager the derms swear by. A clever form of vitamin A, it tackles wrinkles, large pores and even breakouts. But beware: side effects include flaking and irritation. Exercise caution by trying the ‘sandwich’ technique, a sneaky way to build up your skin’s tolerance. Apply your moisturiser, then a layer of your chosen retinol, and slather more moisturiser on top. Sneaky.

Getty Images

Cica and ye shall find

Cica, pronounced ‘seeker’, is the new healing salve setting Google search bars alight. And here’s what you need to know: whether you’re a naturally sensitive sort or you’ve overdone it with laser or peels, these soothing balms are great at placating irritated skin. Their star ingredient is Centella asiatica, a leafy medicinal herb that’s known in Asia as tiger grass because tigers roll in it to heal their battle wounds.

Your Good Skin Cica Repair Sleep Paste coddles your complexion while you snooze. £8, at boots.com

Go pro

Probiotic skincare has been all the rage (because healthy bacteria = healthy skin) but South African brand Esse is launching the first facial that incorporates live probiotics to balance your biome. Book in at Notting Hill’s hot new wellness clinic Apogii. From £150 (apogiiclinic.co.uk).

Knock your spots off

You’ve got to pick your battles, but if it’s breakouts, that never ends well. The new crop of stick-on spot treatments is the perfect foil for fidgety fingers and uses microneedles to deliver potent zit-zappers, such as salicylic acid, right into a brewing blinder. Add Vice Reversa Pimple Patches (£19.95; victoriahealth.com) or ZitSticka’s Killa patches to your sticker collection.

Zitsticka Killa, £27 (zitsticka.co.uk)

Power plant

Look out for bakuchiol, skincare’s latest ‘It’ ingredient, which hails from the babchi plant. Billed as the natural alternative to retinol, it promises the same anti-ageing results, but is gentle enough to use even if you’re pregnant.

Indeed Labs Bakuchiol Reface Pads, £19.99, at boots.com

Clean up

However eco-conscious you are in other areas, cleaning up your skincare routine can be daunting. Enter Lion/ne’s new skincare consultation, a 45-minute, one-to-one session to help you switch to a more sustainable regime, but also reach your skin goals. Take along your current products and experts will decipher which ingredients and packaging don’t make the grade. And if you have products you no longer use, Lion/ne will work with charity Beauty Banks to get them to someone in need. La Crème Fleurit service, £90 (lionneldn.co.uk)

Gold standard

Vitamin C is a skincare stalwart, and with good reason — it fights free-radicals, brightens and boosts collagen production. But sadly, it hates lots of the things we love, namely light, heat and air.But according to formulator Colette Haydon, who has created products for some of the world’s best-known skincare brands, the next big thing is going to be combining it with gold microparticles. ‘This new delivery system stabilises vitamin C and makes it active for longer, as well as increasing its potency.’ This technology won’t be on shelves for a while, so in the meantime, here are our favourite vitamin hits.

Lixir Skin Vitamin C Paste, £32 (lixirskin.co.uk)

What the derms do

We asked London’s top skin doctors what they use on their own faces. *Adding to basket right now*

Dr Justine Kluk

‘Having grown up in sunny South Africa, my skincare goals include reducing dark spots and I swear by Skinceuticals Phloretin CF (£150; skinceuticals.co.uk). It contains 10 per cent pure vitamin C to reduce collagen breakdown from free radicals and regulate pigmentation.’ (drjustinekluk.com)

Skinceuticals

Dr Anjali Mahto

‘Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser

(£38; murad.co.uk). It’s really good at decongesting my skin, reducing oil production and fading the marks I have from old cystic acne.’ (cadoganclinic.com)

Murad

Dr Alexis Granite

‘Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate (£38; kiehls.co.uk) ticks all the boxes for me — a lovely smell and texture combined with great overnight hydration. I use a prescription retinoid to combat ageing and breakouts, and Midnight Recovery complements this perfectly.’ (mallucci-london.com

Kiehl's

Dr Tapan Patel

‘I largely attribute my healthy skin to staying hydrated, having a regular exercise regime and a plant-based diet, but I also use iS Clinical’s Hydra Cool Serum (£48; skincity.co.uk). It includes vitamin B5, which is deeply hydrating, and hyaluronic acid that retains water in the skin.’ (phiclinic.com)

(iS Clinical)
phiclinic