Fay Maschler reviews Tavolino: Handsome views of historic follies soften let-down of lacklustre cooking

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Fay Maschler27 August 2020

Recently someone on Twitter claimed that “more pasta restaurants were reviewed in the UK this year than Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, Chinese, Korean, Thai, Japanese East + West African and Caribbean restaurants combined”.

This seemed surprising to me and when about to review a pasta restaurant – my first in over a year – it occurs to me that customers of all kinds probably embrace the comfort of pasta and its cohort pizza rather more readily than, say, Eritrean.

I have never reviewed here the homemade pasta-led Padella, Pastaio, Flour & Grape, Officina 00, Manteca, Lina Stores or Bancone — although I have enjoyed most of them — so the arrival at newly opened Tavolino of chef Louis Korovilas, formerly head chef of Bancone and whose Godfather, says the publicity, is Giorgio Locatelli, seems like an opportunity not to be missed.

More London, a development south-west of Tower Bridge encompassing City Hall and owned by the Kuwaiti sovereign wealth fund, rattles with chains. Tavolino, with its large terrace adjacent to playful fountains where on a sunny evening children splosh and splash, was previously a Strada. The premises plus outside seating are huge, which seems to put a strain on the booking system.

Saving grace? 'Orzotto' with sweetcorn and confit chicken wing
Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures Ltd

At both visits no trace of the reservations can be found and my companions and I locate each other via texting. Some of the staff make up in enthusiasm what they seem to lack in experience… “There are some Italian words on the menu” said one. “Can I help?”

Provenance and integrity of ingredients is stressed — “We searched Italy and the UK for months…” says the menu and to put it to the test we try that stalwart salad Caprese, based on DOP (protected designation of origin) buffalo mozzarella and sliced finocchiona DOP Tuscan fennel salami. Rival restaurateurs might like to know where the machine was found that can slice salumi so tissue paper-thin. The salad needs olive oil, seasoning and something more than a few basil leaves draped on peeled Datterini tomatoes.

Silk handkerchief pasta, aka fazzoletti, could be flimsier; bucatini with Sicilian red prawns less sinewy; but “orzotto” with sweetcorn and confit chicken wing I can recommend. Also the pizza ­Margherita with its thin sourdough base.

Add on ice-creams or sorbets emerging from a notable pastry kitchen and just lose yourself in the historic sweeping view of Tower Bridge, the Tower of London, HMS Belfast and the skyscraper follies of the City. And have a Negroni. That is done well.

Fay's Favourites - At Tower Bridge

The Coal Shed

Meat, fish, fire; all you need.

One Tower Bridge SE1. coalshed-restaurant.co.uk

Temakinho

Japanese-Brazilian fusion using sustainable fish.

3 Potters Field Park SE1. temakinho.com

Le Pont de la Tour

Secure the terrace - and the set menus.

36D Shad Thames SE1. lepontdelatour.co.uk